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Encyclopedia Britannica - Main :: HIG-HOR |
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HINDUS .Caste does not influence dress amongst Hindug as much as might be expected. The garment distinctive of the Hindus of all castes, men and women, all over India, is the dhoti or loin cloth. It is a. very ancient dress, and their gods are represented as clothed in it in old sculptures. The general term used for clothing is kapra, latd or luga. Under Mahommedan influence Hindu clothing developed into " suits," consisting of five pieces for men, hence called poncho tuk kapra(r) head-dress, (2) dhoti, (3) coat, (4) chaddar or sheet, (5) bathing cloth; and three for women, hence called tin tuk(r) dhoti,(2) jacket, (3) shawl. Men.The Hindu (except the Rajput) shaves his head, leaving only a top-knot on the point of the skull. He shaves the face (except the eye-brows) and his body
Head-dress. Hindus wear sometimes turbans and sometimes caps. When the turban is worn it is always of the pagri form, never the amamah. Hindus wind the pagri in various ways as described for Mussulmans, but the angles are formed over the ears and not from front to back. Mahrattas wear flat red pagris, with a small conical peak variously shaped and placed. The pagri is known in different parts of India as pdg, phenta, phag, phagdi and many other names. In Bengal a sort of turban is worn which can be taken off like a hat. When Hindus wear caps or topis they resemble those worn by Mahommedans, but they never wear the fez, tarbush or irani to pi. In Gaya a peculiar cap made of tal leaves is worn in rainy
Body
cotton
shoulder . Some upper classes of Hindus wear for coat the kurta; most wear the angharka (Plate II. fig. I), a short anga reaching to the waist. It is also known as kamri, baktari, badan or bandi. Hindus wear the angharkha or anga as Mahommedans do, but whereas theMahommedan has the opening on the left the Hindu wears it on the right. When the kurta is worn it is worn under the anga. The chaddar (chadar or dopatta) is of various kinds. It is a piece of cotton
The Brahminical thread (janeo) (Plate II. fig. 2) is a cord made of twisted cotton prepared with many ceremonies. It is worn over the left shoulder and hangs down to the right hip. It is of three strands till the wearer is married, when it becomes six or nine. It is 96 handbreadths in length, and is knotted. Rajputs also wear this thread, similar in make and length, but the knots are different.Caste and sect marks also distinguish Hindus from each other. Women.The hair is sometimes worn plaited (choti), usually an odd number of thin plaits made into one large one, falling down the back and fastened at the end with ribbons. Another style is wearing it in a knot after the ancient Grecian fashion; it is always worn smooth in front and parted in the middle. Over the head is worn the orhna or veil. The end is thrown over the left shoulder in such a manner as to conceal the breast. On the upper part of the body the kurta is sometimes worn. A bodice called angiya is worn. This covers the breast and shoulder; it has half sleeves, is very short, and is fastened at the back with strings. The skirt is called lhenga or ghagra. It is worn mostly in Rajputana hanging in full flounces to the knee or a little below. In Bengal, Madras and Bombay Presidencies women do not wear a skirt, only a choli and sari. This last is a long piece of cotton or silk cloth. Half is draped round the waist and hangs to the feet in folds; the remainder is passed over the head and thrown over the left shoulder (Plate II. fig. 4). SIKx.The Sikh does not shave or cut his hair. The beard is parted in the middle and carried up each side of the face to the top of the head. A piece of cloth called dhata or galmocha is wound round the chin and head so as to keep the hair clean and tidy. The hair of the head is tied into a knot (kes) at the top of the head or at the back, a distinguishing mark of the Sikh. His religion requires the Sikh to carry five articleskes, the knot of hair on the head; the kanga, a comb; the kard, a knife; the kack, a pair of short trousers peculiar to the Sikh; and the khara, an iron bangle on the wrist. It is de rigueur that he should carry some piece of iron on his person. His head-dress he calls a peg; it is a turban of amamah shape but enormously large. The Sikh nobility
The Sikh calls his kurta jhagga; it is very large and loose, bound with a scarf round the waist. The leach is a sort of knickerbockers reaching to just below the knee, which they encircle tightly. Over all the Sikh wears the choga. In outlying villages he wears instead of the /atria a chadar or cloth, which he calls khes, on the upper part of his body. Some village
PARsis.When the Parsis were first admitted into India, certain conditions were imposed upon them by the Hindus; among others they were not to eat beef, and they were to follow the Hindu custom of wearing a top-knot of hair. Old-fashioned Parsis in country districts still follow these customs. To uncover the head is looked upon as a sin; hence Parsis of both sexes always wear some head covering whether indoors or out. In the house
movement
SxoEs.There is no distinction between the shoes worti by Hindus, Moslems, Sikhs or Parsis, but Hindus will not wear them when made of cow's leather. Shoes are called juta, juti or jute by Mahommedans, and fore or tore by Hindus. Shoes are usually distinguished by the name of the material, as nari led jute, leather shoes, banati jute, felt shoes, and so on. There are innumerable styles of cut of shoe, three being the commonest: (r) Salimshahi, these are shaped like English slippers, but are pointed at the toe, terminating in a thin wisp turned back and fastened to the instep. They are mostly made of thin red leather, plain in the case of poorer people and richly seas; they sailed from Havre in that year and were never afterwards heard of. In 1604 a company was granted letters patent by Henry IV., but the project failed. Fresh letters patent were issued in 1615, and two ships went to India, only one returning. La Corn pagnie des Indes was formed under the auspices of Richelieu (1642) and reconstructed under Colbert (1664), sending an expedition to Madagascar. In 1667 the French India Company sent out another expedition, which reached Surat in 1668, where the first French factory in India was established. In 1672 Saint Thorne was taken, but the French were driven out by the Dutch and retired to Pondicherry (1674). In 1741 Dupleix became governor of Pondicherry and in 1744 war broke out between France and England; for the remaining history of the French in India see INDIA.See Haurigot, French India (Paris, 1887) ; Henrique, Les Colonies francaises (Paris, 1889); Lee, French Colonies (Foreign Office Report, 1900) ; L'Annee colonsale (Paris, 1900) ; and F. C. Danvers, Records of the India Office (1887). embroidered in the case of rich people. This cut of shoe is most in vogue amongst Moslems. (2) Gol panje ki juti, like English slippers, but rounded at the toes. (3) Ghclld or ndgphani (snake's head) juld, the toe is turned up, while the back part is folded inwards and trodden under the heel. Ladies usually wear shoes of this fashion, known as phiri juti. Women's shoes differ only in size and in being made of finer material, and in being embroidered. Hindu women seldom wear shoes. On the northern frontier the pattern known as the kafslzi is worn; this is a slipper having neither sides nor back; the sole towards the heel is narrow and raised by a small iron-shod heel. In the hills shoes resembling sandals, called chaplis, made of wood, straw or grass are worn. The soles are very thick, and are secured with straps; there is generally a loop for the big toe. They are known as phulkarru in Kashmir, and pule in Kulu and Chamba. Shoes are invariably removed on entering mosques or other holy places. It is also customary to remove them when entering a house
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