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Encyclopedia Britannica



ALNAGE, or ALLNAGE (from Fr. aune, ell)

This article appears in Volume V01, Page 719 of the Encyclopedia Britannica.

Encyclopedia Britannica - Main :: ALM-ANC
ALNAGE, or ALLNAGE (from Fr. aune, ell) , the official super-vision of the shape and quality of manufactured woollen
cloth
 . It was first ordered in the reign of Richard I. that " woollen cloths, wherever they are made, shall be of the same width, to wit, of two ells within the lists, and of the same goodness in the middle and sides." This
ordinance
  is usually known as the
Assize
  of
Measures
  or the
Assize
  of
Cloth
 . Article 35 of Magna Carta re-enacted the Assize of Cloth, and in the reign of
Edward
  I. an official called an "alnager " was appointed to enforce it. IIis duty was to measure each piece of cloth, and to affix a stamp to show that it was of the necessary size and quality. As, how-ever, the diversity of the wool and the importation of cloths of various sizes from abroad made it impossible to maintain any specific standard of width, the rules as to size were repealed in 1353. The increased growth of the woollen
trade
 , and the introduction of new and lighter drapery in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, compelled a revision of the old standards. A
statute
  was passed in 1665 creating the office of alnager of the new drapery, and defining the sizes to which cloth should be
woven
 . The object of the
statute
  was to prevent people being deceived by buying spurious woollen cloth, and to provide against fraud and
imposition
 . Owing to the introduction of the alternative standard, a distinction arose between " broadcloth " (cloth of two yards) and " streit " or "strait " (narrow cloth of one yard). The meaning now attached to broadcloth, however, is merely that of material of superior quality. Alnage duties and the office of alnager were abolished in 1699.
See W. J. Ashley, Economic History; and W. Cunningham, Growth of
English
  Industry and Commerce.


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